By imperial custom, the bodies of foreigners who died in China during the Ming Dynasty were only permitted to be buried in Macao – and nowhere else. So while the 17th century Italian Jesuit, Matteo Ricci, could rightly be insulted that his earthly remains have ended up in the overgrown grounds of the Beijing Administrative College, it is in actuality an enviable tribute.
Nonetheless, as the very first Westerner to be invited into the Forbidden City, his pioneering spirit should be honored with something corporeal. Like a restaurant featuring cartoons of whales hanging from floating balloons and giraffe-birds with spoons for legs.
Veering dangerously close to kooky, the animal theme at Ricci Creative Eats is actually surprisingly likable. Elsewhere, the design is one of organic simplicity. Tables are made from sawn-off tree trunks and repurposed boat timber; flashes of plant life balance against worn shades of red and orange on the colonial floor tiles. The orgasmic-sounding ‘Uhh that smells good’ painted across one of the walls is a little less wholesome (depending on how you hear the word ‘uhh’ in your head). But it does smell good, so the undue quirkiness is forgivable.
Such an aesthetic is not, in any way, reflective of Ming Dynasty Christendom. But it transpires that the name is more a matter of inspiration – founder Omar Ali came to China in 2002 as an exchange student from a Jesuit college in the US.
We are loath to admit that we were oblivious to his restaurant’s existence (most likely due to its location in an unremarkable office block on the East Third Ring). But the launch of a new menu provides an excuse to a visit and we are rather glad of that fact. Because Ricci is a marvelous little find, deserving of much more than a lazy local lunch crowd.
Photos by Noemi Cassanelli
The American-fusion menu features some delightfully well-though-out touches; enough to justify the use of the word ‘creative’ in the restaurant’s name. The yolks of the unholy ‘deviled’ eggs (RMB30) have been removed and mixed with additional ingredients (salmon, dill and lemon is the standout combination), before being reintroduced to the hard-boiled white. The milk used in the mac and cheese has been soaked in ham to produce an unusually bold, smoky pasta dish (RMB52), enhanced by a sprinkle of dry bonito flakes.
In fact, everything incorporating meat is particularly successful, from the slow-cooked beef and enoki mushroom sandwich (RMB60) to the succulent sliced chicken poached in a sealed bag and served with risotto-style Thai rice and soy ginger vinaigrette (RMB45).
But like the neglected tomb of its namesake, this restaurant will not be stumbled across. You must seek it out, brave Jesuit.
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